Our trip up the Alaskan Highway held lovely views but nothing exciting. We passed old haunts, like the Rancheria, a favorite for breakfast and pancakes. Last year it burned to the ground. 

After sixteen years of traveling these roads, I suppose the change should be expected. (Yes, for those of who haven’t been following us, this is our seventh trip driving from Texas to Alaska!) 

We were surprised to see that our favorite campground in Whitehorse has turned into a “destination,” including a very popular food truck and none of the family vibe it use to have. Worst of all, the Wolf’s Den, with the best schnitzel EVER has turned into a biker bar and burger joint. Heavy sigh. 

Yet some things have remained the same. The Village Bakery in Haines Junction is still as good as ever. After we reprovisioned and changed the truck’s oil in Whitehorse, we stopped by the bakery for breakfast sandwiches and sourdough bread. Yum!

To our complete dismay, we discovered the Chilkat Lake campground in Haines was closed. This has always been a favorite spot for us. It is a lovely, deeply wooded campground and close to the salmon weir where grizzlies come to fish. (Photo of salmon weir.)

David checked for the reason at the visitor center. Evidently the man who managed the campground retired sometime after Alaska’s governor mandated a hiring freeze. Caught in the middle, Haines was unable to hire a replacement. The worst part is that the campground is one of the most popular destinations for Haines visitors. The Haines mayor and Alaska governor have still not been able to resolve the issue. 

So we moved to the state park on the other side of town, near the bay. It, too, is a lovely place, nestled deep in a mossy forest. After a quiet night, we drove to the boat launch, hoping to see my eagle. She quite literally posed for me last time. This year she was nowhere to be found. (Here’s a photo of her from 2023).

On the way back to Haines, we spied a cow moose resting in deep foliage. Later, as we drove back to the weir, we saw a mama grizzly with one or two cubs deep in the bush and across the river. Not great photos, but sightings nonetheless. 

Unfortunately, a cruise ship had docked, so the town’s streets were crowded. Unlike Skagway (which allows up to five cruise ships to dock every day), Haines only allows one a week, which is still too many for our liking. At least we were able to enjoy our usual halibut fish and chips at the Bamboo Room. 

The visitor information center folks suggested that rather than drive all the way back to the state park that we stay at Salmon Creek RV Park for showers and a comfy stay. We agreed… and have regretted it since. 

In fifty years of camping, we have never had a more complicated and less user-friendly shower experience (there are dozens of other water-saving options that are so much better). 

Personally, I believe it is malicious torture to make a Texan, freshly plucked from 100+ degree temperatures, stand in a shower stall, buck naked, dripping wet, and lathered in soap, in a room no warmer than 58 degrees, and have to wait two whole minutes before the shower turns on again. And only then to be blasted with cold water before it warms back up. Goosebumps on goosebumps! 

First you had to wave your hand in front of a blue light until it turned green. Then you could turn on the shower. But that wasn’t all. Their crazy system allowed only four minutes to shower before shutting down for two minutes, then back on for another four. The men’s shower was only on for three minutes, and it took nearly two minutes for the water to turn warm. David believes this was discrimination and almost froze during his experience. My water never turned hot during my four-minute window. I had to dress, move to the next stall, and start all over. My body is still reeling from the trauma. Definitely no kudos for this bunch, plus we have never had a campground so difficult to pay for. In four tries, David still hasn’t been able to rouse a real person, and their computerized system doesn’t work. Crazy!  

Deep breath. Let the shower go! 🤣 People often wonder why we do this… perhaps it’s the opportunity to remind ourselves how wonderful our amenities are at home… and how little we need to survive. 

Haines is a favorite for us because of the wildlife. This trip we found them in secret places and hidden… like the moose cow. Eagles abound in Haines with its eagle preserve, but, like the mama grizzly and cub, they were always across the river from the tourists. I don’t blame them. 

Tomorrow we head towards Valdez, another bear-friendly site where we watch bears fish for salmon. Hopefully they’ll be there… at this point, we feel that we may need to lower our expectations about the animals we see. They are around, just not in very photogenic environments. 

The good news is that despite cold showers and few animals, God is great, the sun is shining, life is good, and we’re still enjoying ourselves. I leave you with this rather crooked photo of Chilkat Lake. Onward to Valdez!