We spent our first night on the Cassiar at Meziadin Lake Provincial Park. Our favorite camp spot was taken, so we chose a site up on the hill, overlooking the lake. The gnats and mosquitoes drove us into the camper early. 

We had settled in when Sam gave her “alert” bark. We both looked but saw nothing. A few minutes later, she alerted again. I peered into the dense brush behind us. Tall bushes were moving about 40-50 feet away. That’s when I saw the flash of a distinctively black rear end. Sam had alerted us to a black bear at the camp’s perimeter!  

We watched as the bear foraged berries, keeping track of him by the swaying branches. Every once in a while his face was visible. He posed no danger to us. He was at a good distance and was very busy foraging. What fun to watch him!  

We drove on to Kanaskin Lake the next morning. It holds so many memories!  It was Roxanne’s last trip, and she wasn’t eating. I was so concerned. But she rallied and stayed with us almost another year. Like Rox, Sam loved the clear, cold lake water. We decided to take our usual hike around the lake, but came upon an enormous pile of fresh bear scat. Discretion being the better part of valour, we turned around, especially since it was beginning to rain. 

To our dismay, British Columbia has instituted a new camping policy. Anyone who is not from the province is charged an additional $20 in camping fees, essentially double the cost. The camping fees were already high, so this new policy adds substantial costs, particularly for families. Kanaskin was $40 a night. Tonight at Bola Lake, the cost is $49. Neither of these campgrounds have showers or additional amenities…. pretty pricey for pit toilets and nonpotable water (especially when motels are not even double the cost). And, as a result, none of these campgrounds are even half full… on a weekend… in the middle of summer… in Canada. In the past, these campgrounds were filled to capacity. We feel unwelcomed. As a result of this policy, if we return, we will take a different route. 

And that brings us to another question. Is this an anniversary tour or a farewell-to-Alaska tour?  As we left Kanaskin, we heard the call of the loon. I walked to the shoreline to see seven loons bobbing on the water. I had never seen so many together at once. Was this their sweet goodbye?  I suppose only time will tell. 

There was much to contemplate as we moved forward under grey and misty skies. Our journey on the Cassiar produced no animals larger than a squirrel or ptarmagin, highly unusual.  

But Sam is enjoying her swimming. The clouds have parted, leaving us with sunny skies and temperatures in the 60s. Life is good. 

Just as hopes for wildlife sightings were completely dashed, about ten miles from the end of the Cassiar, two vehicles were parked before us with their flashers flashing. To our complete delight, a mama bear and her three cubs foraging along the roadside. One of the cubs was a runt, but that certainly didn’t mean he was weak. He outran his siblings to keep up with his mother. A bit further up the road, we spied a young grizzly in the bush (David was able to get a quick shot of him). Success! 

Onward to the Alaska highway!